Page 260 - Fashion Design Technology-TP- Hindi
P. 260

Collar

                                                                                   Note: Due to the shoulder
                                                                                   slope the shape of collar has
                                                                                   to be shifted back.  The dotted
                                                                                   lines in the draft show the
                                                                                   position without shoulder
                                                                                   slope.  The solid lines show
                                                                                   the modified position.
                                                                                   Draw the front and back of
                                                                                   bodice joining on shoulder line.
                                                             10-31 = 8-32 = 27-33  Shape 31-32 with circle, shape
                                                             = Ch/12 + 1 cm        32-33 parallel to 8-27
                                                                                   Mark point 34&35 on cutting
                                                                                   point of shoulder line

                                                             33-36 =34-35          Join 27-36
                                                             27-37 = 36-38 = 32-35  Join 36-38.  Shape 8-37 for
                                                                                   back
                                                             (measured in straight  neck and 35-38 for collar
                                                                                   shape
                                                               distance)
                                                             Side belt
























        SLEEVE                                                5-12 = 1 cm
         0-1 =                Square out horizontally and    4-13   = 1 cm                     Square up from 13.
                              vertically from 0              13-14 = 1 cm      Join 12 and 14
         = SL                                                                  Divide 12-14 in 3 equal parts and
                                                                                   mark 15 and 16
         0-2  = Ch/4 - 1 cm   Square down from 2 and
                              mark 3                                           Square up from 15 and 16
         2-4 = Ch/12 + 1.5 cm                                 15-17 = 16-18 = 0.5 cm
                                                                               Shape 4-14-17-18 and 0
         0-5 = Ch/12 - 1 cm   Join 4-5
                                                                               (Front shape of sleeves)
                              Divide 4-5 into four equal
                              parts and mark 6,7 and 8.      3-19 = 3 cm       Join 4 and 19
                              Square up from 7               19-20 = 2 cm
         7-11 = 0.3 cm        Square up from 6
                                                             19-21 = 1/2 of 1-19 shape 20-21-1
         6-9   = 0.5 cm       Square up from 8
         8-10 = 0.5 cm        Shape 4-1-9-10-0                 The shape of sleeve crowns proportionately will be
                                                               the same in all the garments stitched.  The exact
                              (back shape of sleeve)
                                                               measurement given shall help you to shape the
                                                               crown initially, but also try to draw the shape free
                                                               hand for practice.




       244               प रधान - फै शन िडजाइन और  ौ ोिगकी - (NSQF संशोिधत 2022) - अ ास 1.11.30
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